Vegetables

Asparagus
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Cabbage
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Tomatoes
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Vegetable
Days from Planting to Maturity
Bean 48 to 60 
Beet 55 to 70 
Broccoli 90 to 110 
Cabbage 65 to 120 
Carrot 120 to 150 
Cauliflower 90 to 110 
Celery 90 Corn, sweet 65 to 95 
Cucumber (pickling) 50 to 60 
Cucumber (slicing) 60 to 75 
Eggplant 60 to 80 
Kohlrabi 50 to 60 
Lettuce, head 70 to 90 
Lettuce, leaf 40 to 50 
Muskmelon 85 to 95 
Okra 50 to 60 
Onion, dry 90 to 150 
Onion, green 50 to 60 
Pepper 65 to 80 
Potato 90 to 120 
Pumpkin 100 to 120 
Radish 21 to 30 
Spinach 40 to 50 
Squash, summer 
50 to 60 
Squash, winter 
85 to 110 
Tomato 60 to 80 
Turnip 45 to 75 
Watermelon 85 to 95 



Vegetable Gardening

Planning a successful vegetable garden

Nothing tastes better than vegetables picked fresh from your own garden. There’s a certain satisfaction to serving and eating food that you yourself have grown and harvested. Although they typically demand a good bit of space, vegetables can even be grown in window boxes. Everyone, then, can experience the many joys of the kitchen garden.


Planning A Vegetable Gardening

Level ground is best for growing vegetables. It is easier to prepare, plant, and irrigate than sloping ground. If you must plant on sloping ground, run rows across the slope, not up and down, to keep the soil from washing away during irrigation

The traditional method of vegetable garden design was to plant long, orderly rows. Most home gardeners now opt for planting in beds rather than rows. This method allows you to concentrate your compost on the area where the plants are growing rather than wasting it on the paths between the rows. Walking between the rows also ruins the soil structure, so beds are really a better way to go. The vegetable beds do need to be small enough so that you can easily reach in to weed and harvest all the plants without stepping on the bed itself. Also, if you raise your beds about 8 to 12 inches, you will have improved drainage and the soil will stay warmer in colder weather, such as early spring.

Preparing the Soil
Putting some extra effort into preparing your vegetable beds before planting will save you a lot of time and effort in the future. Dig the bed up to break up compacted soil (this will help with drainage) and removing rocks and weeds as you go. Try to pull out as much of the weed roots as possible so that they will not come back to haunt your vegetables later. This is also a good time to amend your soil. 

Watering
Vegetables need a bit of extra care when it comes to watering. Consistent watering will produce successful results. If you have a large garden, you may want to consider a soaker hose. This will ensure that your plants get an even watering without getting the leaves wet and all you have to do is remember to turn on the house.

Rotating Crops
Assuming that you plan to grow vegetables more than one year, it is important that you rotate your crops. Crop rotation prevents building diseases up in the soil and preserves micro-nutrients. Rotating is not very difficult, but does take a little advance planning as well as a basic knowledge of the vegetable families. Vegetables are broken down into basic family groups. These groups should be rotated together as they use soil in similar ways and share similar pests.

  • Alliums
    Onions, Garlic, Scallions, Shallots, and Leeks.
  • Brassicas
    Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, and Kale.
  • Crucifers
    Turnips, Radishes, Rutabaga, and Collards.
  • Cucurbits
    Cucumbers, Squashes (from zucchini to pumpkin), and Melons.
  • Legumes
    Peas and Beans.
  • Mescluns
    Arugula, Swiss Chard, Chicory, Endive, Escarole, and Radiccio.
  • Fruit Vegtables
    Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplant.

Perennial vegetables such as Asparagus, Rhubarb and Artichokes should not be rotated and therefore should be planted separately. The rest (most vegetables are hardy or semi-hardy annuals) should be rotated every year on a four year plan (so that the same family of vegetables is not planted in the same location within four years). This is easy to accommodate if you have planted four beds for your rotating plants and one bed for your non-rotating perennials. See where that advanced planning starts to come in handy?

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